Over 50 years ago, the city of Montalcino started the Sagra del Tordo in an effort to boost the local economy. Since then the little Sagra with big hopes has outgrown its own name.
Sagra, yes.
The last
weekend in October still offers the best in local dishes and vino, but it goes beyond that. You might
call it a folkfest with parades in medieval costumes, traditional folk dancing
and an exciting archery tournament between the quarters of Montalcino.
Tordi, no.
Thrush have
become a protected species so they are no longer on the menu (much to local
dismay).
TOP TEN
REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD COME TO THE SAGRA DEL TORDO
(in no particular order.
Well, not really.)
10. The excitement and rivalry in the air.
During the settimana santa, the week
leading up to the big festival, you can feel a buzz around town. Banners are
hung on the old City Hall, flags are unfurled in the four quarters and people
are genuinely happy spending all week together sharing meals, singing songs,
and, believe it or not, working. Not in a Snow-White-and-the-Seven-Dwarfs kind
of way, but something with more of a medieval spin on it.
9. Montalcino. While you are soaking up
all this fizzy atmosphere, you can enjoy the stunning views from the Fortress
onto the Val d’Orcia and the charming streets of this Tuscan town. Make sure you bring your camera!
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| Flags in the Ruga quarter |
8. The Quarters. Montalcino is divided into four quarters. On your stroll around town, you will see the symbols on the house numbers for Borghetto (red and white), Ruga (blue and yellow), Travaglio (red and yellow) and Pianello (white and blue). See map here.
During this
week, the borders between the four quarters are distinctly marked by the flags,
the intense rivalry ignites once again and there is no cross-quarter
socializing… at least during dinner time. Sometimes the main square becomes a
stage for a sort of sing-off late at night as clusters of quartieranti chant their fighting anthems from their designated
corners, and then everyone has a drink together afterwards.
On a personal note, I have lived here for about
ten years and freely floated from one quarter to another with my friends for
whatever occasion. I cheered for the archers that I knew and was usually happy
for the winning quarter. I felt a bit like Switzerland (sorry, Katja!), and
thoroughly enjoyed my neutrality… until I started getting more and more
involved in one quarter in recent years and have been an official card-carrying
member since January. Let’s go, Pianello!
7. Dancing in the Streets. Thanks to a
group of young Ilcinesi, you can
still see the traditional Trescone
folk dance on the streets of Montalcino. Clap along as they dance on Saturday
morning at 11 am in the main square, Piazza
del Popolo, and on Sunday morning at 9 am around town.
6. The Draw. On Saturday morning at 12 pm
everyone gathers in the main square. Each quarter arrives one at a time led by
their drummer, flag bearer, captain of the archers and two archers in costume
followed by the quartieranti proudly
singing and wearing their colors. Each captain brings the names of three
previously selected best archers from the quarter to be drawn in public. There
is a moment when all four quarters are drumming and singing and you can feel
the vibration right in your chest: the true essence of the Sagra. Then absolute
silence reigns over the square as the archers for each quarter are randomly
selected. Silence, then an outbreak of joy… and more singing.
5. Food. What is a Sagra without delicious food? After the draw, make your way to the garden near the Fortress where each
quarter sets up a stand on Saturday from 12.30 pm to 8 pm and on Sunday from 9
am to 8 pm. Smoke from the grill wafts through the air as ribs, sausages and
even porcini sizzle their way to
perfection. Perhaps lampredotto tickles
your fancy (who knew cow stomach could be so darn good?). Or try the handmade pinci or gnocchi or pappardelle with
wild hare sauce. The mouth-watering selection is endless. Three of the quarters
also welcome sagra-goers in their halls for a set menu. For further information
and the menus, click here.
4. Wine. Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino.
Sant’Antimo DOC. Moscadello, Moscato and Grappa di Montalcino. Saturday and
Sunday. Enough said.
3. Good
company. What a great way to spend a Saturday or Sunday afternoon… eating
lunch in good company outside the Fortress while the grills are grilling,
chestnuts are roasting, children are running around drumming on their toy drums
and someone is usually singing and raising a glass of red.
2. Men in tights and knights in shining armor.
No joke. The historical parade features the Lord and Lady of the Fortress with
her ladies-in-waiting, soldiers and hunters (dogs included), trumpeters and
drummers in addition to the royalty and archers for each quarter with an
offering for the noble couple. You will see men in tights and knights in
shining armor and, of course, the beautiful ladies of the court. Shorter
parades take place on Saturday at 11.30 am from Piazza Cavour to the main
square for the draw and at 4 pm from Piazza Cavour to the Stadium for the
exhibition shoot-off. The full parades are on Sunday at 11.15 am from Piazza
Cavour to the Fortress where there is the opening ceremony and at 3 pm from
Piazza Cavour to the Stadium for the official archery competition. Details on
link above. In case of rain, the parade
is limited to those who participate in the competition.
1. Archery. This is a real archery
competition. Sometimes victory comes with a bit of luck, but there is no
trickery here. The best archers win. For the children of the quarter, archers
are true heroes who spend the year practicing for this event. Everyone hopes
for victory; the glory of winning on the field. When the winner is officially
declared, the celebrations begin and there is more singing and parading around
town with the coveted silver arrow as the autumn sun sets on Montalcino.
SAGRA DEL TORDO 2012 in MONTALCINO, Saturday and Sunday October 27/28
Surprisingly, after an October with incredibly hot temperatures, the weather forecast for the 2012 edition of the Sagra is looking rather miserable. With bad weather, be sure to check the Sagra del Tordo website or call Montalcino's tourist office to find out whether the event is going to be postponed: +39 0577 849 331.
Lisa Maria Annicchiarico, is an Italo-Canadian English teacher, translator and writer who has chosen Montalcino as her Italian base. If you plan a trip to Brunello town, make sure you check out her tips for a day in Montalcino, written for the Florentine, the English language newspaper from Florence. She also wrote PINK, a wonderful children's book with a message, which so deserves a great publisher. Know of anybody? Get in touch with her here via Facebook.